You guys, I am so nearly there on the coat front! I don’t want to jinx anything right now, but after a bajillion hours spent unpicking I finally got the armholes to fit perfectly – and because the fabric is so thick and spongy, it looks as neat as it did in the first place!
I then made a slight crescent shape to extend the shoulders, where I’d hacked away at them in the first place.
Unpicking them and doing it more neatly definitely worked better!
And finally I redrafted the sleeves. After googling the issue, I came across this amazing post, which gave me an idea about where the fitting issues were coming from. I started by cutting the original sleeves out of some cheap wool/ polyester in my stash. Then using my french curve, I lowered the height of the sleeve head quite drastically.
To make sure that it would still fit in the armhole, I had to add an inch or so to the side seam. I have to admit, I did this all by guess work and then hoped for the best when I inserted it into the coat.
And miracles occurred – it fit! To get the whole sleeve to work, I just graded the new extension down into the side seam of the sleeve.
I was very good with this and actually cut out the new modifications on paper in case I ever make this again. Who am I kidding? I don’t think I’ll ever have the patience to do this again! And then I recut in the precious spare wool I had.
It all fits in nicely now and I’ve recut the lining to match. The shoulder pads are fitted and I’ve just got the fiddly welt pockets etc to sew before I can join the lining and main fabric. Here’s hoping it’s all done while the weather is still cold enough to get the most from the coat!
Oh, and Happy New Year to you all!