As promised in my last post here is a step by step account of how I attached my skirt zipper without any seams showing.
Click on the images to see larger pictures.
Place your skirt fabric with right sides facing upwards and lie your zipper right side down (basically put the right sides of the zip and the skirt fabric together) on the left hand side of the seam opening and pin in place. NB the seam has not been sewn together yet!
Sew into place using a zipper foot and backstitching to secure ends about 2cm from zip stopper. (The photos don’t show up the stitching very well as the thread matches, but it just shows that the zip is now secured to one side of the skirt seam opening and you can see the stitching on the reverse of the fabric.)
With right side of fabric still facing up, tuck under the zip so that it is lying as it would on the finished garment and then turn over the right hand side of the zipper tape again so that the teeth are pointing away from the seam edge and the zip looks twisted at the base. Pin into place and sew. Remember to stop 2cm from the zip stop again.
Your zip should now be secured to your skirt. Now, to sew the seam together, pull the tail end of the zip out of the way and pin the seam from the end of your last stitches to the hem of the skirt. Using your zipper foot, sew seam together.
Iron, iron and iron again! Basically, the more you iron the crisper everything will look (I’m very guilty of skipping this step and regretting it later – therefore I speak from experience.) I ironed the seam allowance and the zip on the inside and outside.
Ok, now to attach the lining. My lining is already attached to the skirt at the waist. Again, place your skirt with right side of fabric facing up. Flip the zip tape so that the teeth are pointing in. Bring over the lining so that the right side of the lining and fabric are together. Line up the edges of the fabric and pin the lining so that the zipper tape is sandwiched between the lining and outer fabric. Sew from the top of the zip to 2cm above the zip stopper, make sure that the teeth are pointing away from the seam edge and that you are sewing between the edge and the teeth.
Repeat with the other side of the zipper tape with the teeth pointing away from the seam edge, pin lining into place matching up the seam edges and sew from the top to 2cm above stopper again. You should now have 2 seams that enclose both sides of the zipper tape.
Now repeat Step 4 to sew the lining seam together. Pull the tail end of the zip out of the way and pin the seam from the end of your last stitches to the hem of the skirt. Using your zipper foot, sew seam together. Then obviously iron the seam.
Use a point turner or something sharp to gently turn it the right way round and iron again.
Stand back and look at how pretty your zip looks without any seams!